Pacific Grove Golf Links gets into the groove - at a mellow California pace
Correspondent
PACIFIC GROVE, Calif. - In the land of $300 green fees, there's something refreshing about turning off Ocean View Boulevard, coasting the length of a short par 4 and turning into a parking lot totally lacking in pretension.
In fact, so low-key is the approach to Pacific Grove Golf Links that if you are gazing at the players strolling up the 18th fairway, you might miss the clubhouse altogether.
Eventually, you'll find it. And you'll be pleasantly underwhelmed, which is basically the point: On the Monterey Peninsula, golf is such a big deal (and as perception has it, so expensive) that the mere existence of a place like Pacific Grove Golf Links is surprising.
It's the type of place where a set of Callaway rentals ($40) will cost you more than the greens fee ($38). The course is unforgettable, but it sure doesn't start out that way.
Once you've handed over your green fee, you'll take about six steps to the first tee. How's this for a starter hole: a 125-yard, straight-away par 3 with an Astroturf tee box? It brings to mind "Ponkaquoge," the fictional muni in Rick Reilly's classic "Missing Links."
Things don't improve quickly. The second hole, another par 3, stretches to about 200 yards with a graveyard - literally - waiting out of bounds to catch those wayward slices (though, of course, that didn't happen to this reporter).
Somewhat amusing are the ever-present deer, which cluster about the chipping areas, on a permanent quest for tasty grass. They tend to leave ample evidence of their visits.
Helen Ratto, a regular at Pacific Grove, offered some friendly advice. "Don't waste your photos on the front side," Ratto said. "We're just passing time until we make the turn."
And that about sums up Pacific Grove's front nine. To be fair, the greens are excellent - receptive, fast, and true. And once the course shakes off its obsession with par 3s, the holes become more interesting.
The neighborhood lining the course is pretty and there seems to be a steady stream of walkers and bicycle riders all too willing to return shots that veer out of bounds from the 420-yard par-4 eighth (though, of course, that didn't happen to this reporter).
The front nine ends, oddly enough, with a demanding 220-yard par 3 that plays into the wind. Use a driver - maybe you'll hit the clubhouse out of frustration.
Grab a Diet Coke or a bottle of water from the vending machine and make the turn - this is what you came for. And yet, you still must wait because next is a 110-yard par 3. About the only thing interesting that could happen here would be an ace, which didn't occur on this reporter's recent visit.
Then, from out of nowhere, the beauty reveals herself. The 11th hole is a short par 4 playing directly toward the ocean, with a fairway so wide it beggars the mind to contemplate the possibility it's ever been missed. Just hit it. And hard. If you don't reach it, you'll have a mellow wedge to a green with a generous backboard.
And now you're just getting started. The 12th hole is majestic: the back nine's only par 5, an absolute beauty that runs directly along the coast. Misty green fairway, interrupted only by a series of sand dunes runs more or less up the right-hand side. Swing away here - and make sure your buddy captures it on film.
The fun continues and you start to get into a groove. A string of par 4s go back and forth, your ocean view is never interrupted and the fairways remain wide.
There's the odd chance you'll wind up in a sand dune - you might even lose a ball - but you'll be having too much fun by this point to care. More than likely, you'll score okay here, but even if you don't, your photos won't reflect that.
One last par 3 at 17, a 150-yard carry over water, before a letdown short par-4 finishing hole (you are, after all, nearing the clubhouse). But you've just played the back nine at Pacific Grove for 38 bucks ($78 if you rented the Callaways). You got a good deal.
The verdict
Pacific Grove carries the nickname "Poor Man's Pebble Beach." And let's face it: most of those who fly in to stay at The Lodge, play the premier courses and spend more than $1,000 a day aren't going to slot PGGL into their itinerary.
One look at the first tee and they'd be speed-dialing FlexJet, demanding shrimp cocktails, martinis and an urgent round at Cypress Point.
But there's a place for Pacific Grove Golf Links. It's a very wonderful golf course (well, at least, half of it is). And it's an undeniable statement that in a setting as posh as the Monterey Peninsula, public, affordable, seaside links golf is there for those who don't carry Platinum cards.
Go play it - unless someone is sporting you a round at Pebble.
Stay and play
Asilomar Conference Grounds (visitasilomar.com, (888) 733-9005) is close to Pacific Grove Golf Links in a beautiful beach setting with historical lodges.
The Portola Plaza Hotel (portolaplazahotel.com, (831) 649-4511) is a top-notch, modern hotel just steps from Fisherman's Wharf and everything else downtown Monterey has to offer. Plus, it's only about 10 minutes from the course.
Dining out
The Crown and Anchor (crownandanchor.net, (831) 649-6496) was rated the No. 1 Pub in Monterey County. It's at 150 W. Franklin St., opposite the downtown Marriott. It's noted for its fish 'n' chips and calamari 'n' chips.
If You Go
Pacific Grove Golf Links
77 Asilomar Ave.
Pacific Grove, CA 93950
Phone: (831) 648-5777
August 29, 2005
Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management.
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Ted Nguyen wrote on: Sep 18, 2005
Just returned from this jewel in Monterey. What a memorable time I had at this fairly priced but picturesque course (back nine of course). Greens are extremely accurate. But it's the ocean breezes, vistas, and sun, that will make you feel like a million bucks as I carried my wallet to the Lodges at Pebble for drinks and pics!
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Jim Smith wrote on: Sep 16, 2005
This is a story that was already written about a year ago. Why write it again? Find a course in California that you haven't written about. This is boring. Read it before. Pacific Grove just voted to raise its fees so your story is already out of date.
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Lee Doble wrote on: Aug 30, 2005
My wife and I had the opportunity to play Pacific Grove last year while spending a few days in the Monterey area. We paid more for some other daily fee courses in the area - and received good value and enjoyed those rounds. But Pacific Grove was the inexpensive treat that we remember best.
My first impression of the front nine was similar to yours, but the wait was more than worth it. And several of those first nine holes were demanding enough...and at least there were the deer to keep us amused.
I grew up in a household of parents who were depression era children, who learned early how to squeeze as much out of a buck as possible. They aren't rolling in their graves because of our expense for Pacific Grove, but they sure would be for many of the other $200+ rounds that we could've been playing that day.
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